Pemba Dorje

Pemba Dorje

Guinness Book of World Record Holder Joins Our Team
By 2017 Pemba Dorje Sherpa (whose nickname is, appropriately, Speed) had summited Everest no less than 18 times, breaking several records in the process. Born on 19 April, 1977 in Beding village of Ralwaling region of Dolkha, Pemba had to drop out of school when his father died. He began his working life as a mountaineering and trekking porter and it was not until 2003 that he had the chance to prove what a capable and talented climber he was by summiting Everest in world breaking time!

More About Pemba Dorje

  • Climbed Mt Everest 18 times, 7 times without oxygen
  • 2003 Climbed Mt Everest in 12 hours 45 minutes (breaking the current record by more than 4 hours)*
  • 2004 Climbed Mt Everest in a new record time of 8 hours 10 minutes*
  • 2004 Climbed Mt Everest twice within 5 days*
  • 2007 Climbed Mt Everest 3 times within 10 days*

Not only is Pemba a record breaker, and record setter, he has the skills require of a good mountaineer; which are extremely valuable in a team leader. Repeated practice and years of climbing experience has enabled Pemba to develop a second sense on the mountains. He can tell when his body is ready for that extra push, and can evaluate those around him in their abilities. His years on the mountains has also taught him to read terrain and weather conditions, in order to avoid dangerous situations.

As well as scaling Everest and Amadablam (15 times), Pemba has also climbed other mountains over 8,000m. He is also one of 7 siblings to summit Everest and one of 4 siblings to summit Amadablam. In addition, he has also a long history of helping others set records:

  • In 2008 he helped Min Bahadur Serchan become the oldest person to summit Everest, at 76 years of age.
  • In 2008 he also led the “First Inclusive Women Sagarmatha Expedition” to summit Everest.

He also has a love for his country. For example in 2018 he fixed a golden statue of King Prithvi Narayan Shah, the man responsible for the unification of Nepal in 1768, to the top of Mt Everest. This follows an occasion in 2009 when he affixed a golden statue of Lord Buddha on the top of the world. Not forgetting his love of the world as a whole, in 2007 Pemba climbed Everest with a specially made jacket depicting the flags of 250 countries.

In addition to his prowess on the mountain, Pemba has highlighted the impact of climate change on the Himalayas and been recognised for this work by the Friends of the Himalayas, The American Himalayan Foundation, 350, Friends of the Earth etc. In fact he holds the following positions:

  • 2004 Goodwill Ambassador for Friends of the Earth
  • 2009 Goodwill Ambassador for 350.org
  • 2011 Goodwill Ambassador for Nepal Tourism Year 2011

Today Pemba Dorje Sherpa’s achievements are still outstanding, speaking of his strength and resilience on the mountains. He has excellent judgment, self-discipline and a real understanding of mountain terrain. He also has a deep understanding of what others on the mountain need to have a successful journey.

Climb with this Award Winning Mountaineer!

If you would like to have Pemba lead your expedition, this is certainly possible through Gurkha Encounters. Just let us know your tentative dates, mountain of choice and number in your expedition and we will get back to you with more information.

Please note that Pemba is a Senior Consultant with us, so even if he is not leading your team, he has a hand in ensuring you have the best leader, guides and support staff possible, and have the best itinerary and routes.

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